Alpamayo (19,512 feet/5,947 meters)
is the gem of the Cordillera Blanca in Peru. Ever since it was first climbed in 1951, alpinists have been flocking to attempt its fluted Southwest Face. Many fledgling high altitude climbers consider this peak a culmination of their early climbing careers.
It has often been named by climbers, magazines, and trekkers, “the most beautiful mountain in the world”. Alpamayo deserves these accolades. Summit day consists of 1,500 feet (450 meters) of perfect two-tooled ice and neve (styrofoam-like snow) climbing on a flawless fluted face. You know you are close to reaching the top when you begin to see light through the face from the other side. And on a good year, you can actually top out on the summit ridge, with one foot dangling down each of its almost vertical faces.
Getting to this point requires hard work and solid mountaineering and ice climbing skills. Before reaching the famed summit face we must approach over 25 kilometers (15+ miles), place two lower camps, and carry heavy packs filled with climbing equipment and food over 4,000 feet (1,219 meters) of moraine, scree, and steep glaciated terrain.
June to Agust
> Climbing Grade:
Day A: Lima – Huaraz 3090m.
Boarding our comfortable bus, we make the long drive across the Punta Conococha (4100m) to the town of Huaraz (3090m), where we check in to the group Hostal.
Day B: Acclimatisation day (tour to Churup Lake 4,450)
Acclimatisation day, with the option to make the 5- 6 hours round trip towards a viewpoint to Laguna Churup (4450m), for views of Cordillera Blanca the impressive peaks. Hostal.
Day 01: Drive from Huaraz 3,090m. to Cashapampa 2,900m.
( 2 hours ) passing by the city carhuaz 2,650m. , Yungay 2,530m. the old city was completely destroyed by an earthquake and enormous rock and mud avalanche on May 31,1970. from the new city one can see the full majesty of Mt.Huascaran ,the highest peak in the Peruvian andes at 6768 meters. Caraz 2,250m. is the starting point to get to Cashapampa the famous walk through the santa cruz valley and for alpamayo climbing then our gear is loaded on to the donkeys and we climb good path 4 hours to llamacorral camp at 3,700m.
Day 02: Llamacorral – Ichiccocha lake & jatuncocha lake – Alpamayo base camp 4,300m.
After our breakfast we going to continue up passing by ichiccocha and jatuncocha lake we arrive to Alpamayo base camp 4,300m. aprox. 5 hours
Day 03: Alpamayo base camp – Moraine Camp 4,800m.
We climb up to moraine camp. the donkeys can not come this way you need carry your personal gear ,climbing gear, clothes and sleeping bag and .3 Hours.
Day 04: Moraine camp – High Camp 5,400 m.( glacier)
We leave climb about 15 minutes on moraine until we reach the glacier where we put on crampons and rope up there can be some steeper sections which we would help you with aprox, 4 hours to high camp.
Day 05: High Camp – Alpamayo 5,947m.summit – High Camp
Summit day we leave early (2:00 a.m.) to climb after 1 hour we will have ice wall 70º to inception and the last part 85º, about 7 or 8 a.m. we will be in top after 20 minutes takes photos , appreciate the amazing surrounding mountains . from the summit fantastic views of the close by the peaks of quitaraju 6,030m. jancarurish 5,570 ,rinrijirca 5,810m. artesonraju 6,025m.. descend by rapel to high camp ,where we will prepare hot soup and rest
Day 06: Alpamayo High Camp – Alpamayo Base Camp
return In the morning after breakfast we will return to base camp.
Day 07: Alpamayo Base Camp – Cashapampa – huaraz – hotel
By the same way we will walk down to cashapampa 6 hours
Day C : Huaraz -Lima
The best month are:
Peru is known for having very stable periods of weather during the Andean Winter (May – Aug). The remainder of the season is dominated by the rainy season.
While climbing and trekking in Cordillera Blanca you will encounter a wide range of temperatures; from freezing nights, to snowy and windy conditions, to bright sunshine intensified by the high altitude. In one day you may experience temperatures below zero, then daytime highs of 50-70ºF range with intense solar radiation. You will need everything from shorts and a t-shirt for your time in the town of Huaraz to being fully clothed in down expedition jackets on summit day. This wide fluctuation in temperatures makes it important to bring everything on the equipment list.
» 1 Person
» 2 Persons
US 1500 per person