Alpamayo at 5947m. One of the most beautiful Mountain in the world.
Huascaran at 6768m. The highest tropical mountain in Peru.
Both mountains are located in the heart of the Cordillera Blanca within Huascaran National Park.
Alpamayo Climbing Expedition
is for experienced climbers who are looking for an exciting and classic alpine climb. This climb involves a steep face preceded by an intricate glacier; prior knowledge of roped travel, ice climbing and crampon techniques, and ice axe arrest is required.
the highest peak in Peru. Huascaran has two peaks Huascaran South at 6768m. Huascaran North 6650m. Getting to the top is a significant mountaineering achievement, the climb is physically demanding and will require a high level of endurance so the climbers must be in excellent physical shape.
In these expeditions the mules or donkeys help transport our gear to Base Camp, allowing us to make the trek with light daypacks.
Before climbing Alpamayo and Huascaran in Peru we advise adding an ascent above 5,000m to give additional acclimatization.
Our Alpamayo and Huascaran climbing is led by Peruvian Mountain Guides UIAGM who bring with him years of climbing experience on mountains all over Peru and South America
Thanks for choosing Peruvian Mountains!
June to August
15 days / 14 night
Day 1.- Huaraz – Cashapampa – Llamacorral
This morning you will picked up from your hotel then transfer along the Callejon de Huaylas valley, passing by small towns as Marcara, Carhuaz, Yungay , Caraz then Cashapampa at 2900m. The starting point of the hike there the donkeys and donkey driver will be waiting for you then the equipment is loaded onto the donkeys.
The hike start by narrow valley, you will hike up for about 2 hours then we will start going up moderately almost the flat area to the first camp place Llamacorral at 3,700m.
Approx. 4 – 5 Hours
Day 2.- Llamacorral – Alpamayo Base Camp
After our delicious breakfast we will continue up by easy and flat area passing by Ichiccocha and Jatuncocha lake we arrive to Alpamayo base camp 4,300m.
Approx. 5 hours
Day 3.- Alpamayo Base Camp – Moraine Camp 4800m.
We climb up to moraine camp. the donkeys cannot come this way you need carry your personal gear climbing gear, clothes and sleeping bag and. In this section we will have porters to carry the tents and foods
Approx. 3 Hours
Day 4.- Moraine Camp – High Camp 5400m
We will climb about 15 minutes on moraine until we reach the glacier where we put on crampons and rope up there can be some steeper sections which we would help you with approx., 4 hours
Day 5.- High Camp – Summit Alpamayo 5947m. – High Camp
Summit day we leave early (2:00 a.m.) to climb after 1 hour we will have ice wall 70º to inception and the last part 85º - 90°, about 7 or 8 a.m. we will be in top after 20 minutes takes photos , appreciate the amazing surrounding mountains. From the summit fantastic views of the close by the peaks of Quitaraju 6,030m. Jancarurish 5,570m. Rinrijirca 5,810m. Artesonraju 6,025m. descend by rapel to high camp ,where we will prepare hot soup and rest
Day 6.- High Camp – Base Camp
In the morning with the help of our porters we will descend to Alpamayo Base Camp
Day 7.- Base Camp – Cashapampa – Huaraz
After our good breakfast in the base camp we will return by the same Santa Cruz valley to Cashapampa where our private tourist transport will be waiting for us to drive back to Huaraz Hotel
Approx. 6 hours
Day 8.- Huaraz Rest day
Rest day and preparation for Huascaran climbing
Day 9.- Huaraz – Musho – Huascaran Base Camp
After breakfast, drive from Huaraz, heading north to the town of Musho, approximately two hours from Huaraz. In Musho our donkey driver will be waiting for us, the equipment is carried onto the donkeys. From Musho start the hike for 4 – 5 hours to Huascaran base camp at 4300m
Day 10.- Base Camp – High Camp 5350m
With the help of our porters we will start hiking up to moraine camp the first part is rock almost 300m. arriving to moraine camp then continue to glacier where we have to put our climbing equipment, two hours more to high camp at 5400m.
Day 11.- High Camp I – High Camp II 5850m.
Early in the morning we climb for about three hours until La Garganta (The Throat), a broad saddle between the north and south summits. As you climb through the increasingly broken glacier, you will encounter short sections of technical climbing including an ice ascent of up to 60 degrees inclination. Huascaran High camp II at 6000m.
Day 12.- High Camp II – Summit Huascaran at 6768m. – High Camp II
Summit day, early in the morning we will have fast breakfast then we will start climb up at 1:00 am. Arriving to the summit 6,768m approx. 9:00 am. From the Huascaran top we will enjoy the white mountain range (cordillera blanca ) after taking pictures for a few minutes we will go down to high camp.
Day 13.- High Camp – Base Camp
In the morning, after breakfast, we will have to pick up our tents and pack everything then go down to the moraine camp, and finally to the base camp
Day 14.- Extra Day
Extra day in case of bad weather
Day 15.- Base Camp – Musho – Huaraz
Our last breakfast. all climbing and logistics equipment is loaded onto donkeys then descend for about 3 hours to Musho where our private transport will be waiting for us to transfer to Huaraz ( celebration dinner)